类别：传统技艺

出处：http://www.gdsqyg.com/agdfyzg/mingluinfo?mlproid=2018040410267538

简介：和平县彭寨镇墩头村地处东江流域、九连山系，其种棉纺织历史悠久，当地所产的“墩头蓝”棉纺织印染布料以整洁柔软、厚密有度、简洁大方、耐磨实用等特点，以自然、清新、简约、和谐的蓝色而闻名东江流域。墩头村曾氏家族自明代中期迁居此地后，利用本地区独特的自然环境发展棉纺织印染技艺，并曾自嘉应州学习踹布技术，明清时期，墩头村出产如“墩头蓝”、“墩头红”、“墩头乌”等质量优良家机布料，其中以“墩头蓝”最具特色。如今，当地的墩头蓝纺织技艺仍传承着明清传统纺织印染技艺。墩头蓝纺织技艺有十几道工序，主要包括煮浆、浆纱、晒纱、撑纱（搓纱）、打纱筒、打纱碌、耕纱、过厚、梳布、上机、过纵、调机、调掉宾绳、织布、下布、蒸布、晒布染布、再晒布、踹布等。其制作工艺颇费人力，如织布时需腰勒大皮带，双脚协调踩下踏板，两手拋接布梭，经纱、纬纱交织；兼推挽撞椎，全神贯注，以减少撞纱、跌梭。墩头蓝纺织技艺的制成品用途广泛，包括：“墩头蓝”头帕布艺、“墩头蓝”客家绣花帽、绣花鞋；“墩头蓝”布艺在书画装裱、书籍装帧上的运用及成品等；“墩头蓝”纺织技艺染踹布工艺完成的各种日常生活用品：衣服、裤子、蚊帐、被子、被面、披风、鞋、袜子、背带、手帕、手巾、桌布、茶袋、豆腐袋等。墩头蓝纺织技艺作为当地传统纺织技艺的一种，其传承历史悠久，至今仍保留了岭南地区传统纺织染整技艺的精髓，其制作流程繁复，制成品精致，被广泛应用于群众的生产生活当中，兼具历史价值与实用价值。墩头蓝纺织技艺的传承主要是以家族方式传承，有传男不26传女，传内不传外的村规。随着工业化、城市化进程加快，现代纺织技术日益普及，墩头蓝纺织技艺市场需求日渐萎缩，墩头村人很多传统手工艺者慢慢懈怠放弃传统纺织手工业的生产，年轻人不愿意从事这门传统手工艺，墩头蓝纺织技艺濒临失传，亟需抢救保护。

英译：Duntou Blue, a cotton textile tradition from Duntou Village, Pengzhai Town, Heping County, situated in the Dongjiang River Basin and Jiulian Mountain Range, has a long history of cottoncultivation and weaving. Local "Duntou Blue" cotton textiles are renowned in the DongjiangRiver Basin for their neatness, softness, thickness, simplicity, durability, and the natural, fresh, minimalist, and harmonious blue hues. Since the mid-Ming Dynasty, when the Chen clan migrated to this area, they utilized theunique natural environment to develop cotton weaving and dyeing techniques. They even traveledto Jiayingzhou to study the "trampling cloth" technique. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Duntou Village produced high-quality household fabrics such as "Duntou Blue," "Duntou Red," and "Duntou Black," among which "Duntou Blue" was the most distinctive. Today, the traditionalDuntou Blue textile craftsmanship continues to uphold Ming and Qing traditions of weaving anddyeing. The Duntou Blue textile process involves over a dozen steps, including boiling starch, starching yarn, sun-drying yarn, stretching yarn (twisting yarn), making yarn tubes, rolling yarns, cultivating yarn, thickening, carding cloth, setting up looms, threading, adjusting looms, adjustingand dropping weft threads, weaving cloth, removing cloth, steaming cloth, sun-dyeing cloth, sun-drying again, and trampling cloth. This craft-intensive process requires skilled labor, withweavers using large leather belts around their waists, coordinating their feet on pedals, andskillfully tossing shuttles to interlace warp and weft threads while minimizing mistakes. Products of Duntou Blue textile art find wide applications, including headscarves, Hakkaembroidered hats, embroidered shoes, book and painting mounts, book bindings, and various dailynecessities such as clothing, pants, mosquito nets, quilts, quilt covers, capes, shoes, socks, suspenders, handkerchiefs, towels, tablecloths, tea bags, and tofu bags, all completed through thedyeing and trampling process of Duntou Blue textile craftsmanship. As a local traditional textile art, Duntou Blue weaving and dyeing has a long history ofinheritance, preserving the essence of Lingnan's traditional textile dyeing and finishing techniques. Its intricate production process and exquisite finished products are widely applied in people'sproduction and daily life, embodying both historical and practical values. The inheritance ofDuntou Blue textile art is mainly through familial transmission, adhering to village rules ofpassing down to male heirs and within the family. With the accelerated processes of industrialization and urbanization and the increasingpopularity of modern textile technologies, the market demand for Duntou Blue textilecraftsmanship is gradually shrinking. Many traditional artisans in Duntou Village are graduallyabandoning traditional handcraft production, and younger generations are reluctant to engage inthis traditional handicraft. As a result, Duntou Blue textile craftsmanship is on the brink ofextinction and urgently needs rescue and protection.