Pillar of Strength Jie-Er-Jing Sichuan Cuisine
川菜砥柱·洁而精川菜馆

Sichuan restaurants in Shanghai have gone through a long period of turmoil and change. The one that was able to withstand the turbulence ought to be Jie-Er-Jing Sichuan Restaurant, located at the corner of Nanchang Road and Yandang Road.

Jie-Er-Jing Restaurant has a history of over 60 years. It was established on Rue Marcel Tillot (today's Xingan Road behind Lady's Department Store), just before the victory of the War against Japanese aggression. Initially being called Jie-Er-Jing Teahouse, the business was facing the possibility of bankruptcy due to poor management. To save the business, owner Xiang Dezeng hired famous chef Lu Zhengkun, who was the apprentice of the Sichuan cuisine master Liao Haideng, whose culinary approach, known as Liao Style, was extremely popular in Shanghai at the time. With the aid of chef Lu, the dwindling business transformed into a booming restaurant, and the teahouse was renamed to Jie-Er-Jing Restaurant.

Chef Lu has demonstrated superb culinary skills and brilliant business ideas. In 1983, master Lu Zhengkun was appointed to be the judge of the first Culinary Competition in China, and later his name was also recorded in the "Chinese Encyclopedia". Master Lu believed that cooking a dish required utter devotion. Lu's simple "homemade" bean curd dish was able to attract more and more patrons. The bean curd was first deep-fried until golden, crispy outside and tender inside. Then, in a wok, the fried Tofu was stir-fried with a mixture of minced garlic, chopped scallions, ginger pieces and hot bean paste from town of Pi. After that, sliced fried pork, shitake mushroom, sliced bamboo shoots were added and cooked together with a splash of Yellow Wine, a few drizzles of soy sauce and a pinch of sugar. All ingredients were boiled in savory soup stock over high heat and then simmered until well done. After the briny sauce being absorbed fully, the dish was garnished with chives and served on a platter. The spicy and delicious homemade bean curd dish earned numerous compliments from the customers, who said: "At Jie-Er-Jing Restaurant, even a simple ordinary dish is so meticulously prepared and tastes so amazing. It is needless to say about the fancier foods." Customer's testimonials were worth more than silver and gold. Since then, the good word of mouth spread fast and wide all over Shanghai.

Meanwhile, the restaurant's rise to fame lured quite a few dignitaries and celebrities. Great Chinese painter and calligrapher Wu Hufan became a regular client at Jie-Er-Jing and also became close friend with chef Lu. One time, the artist unknowingly revealed to Lu his secret desire of eating "Rice with Wild Duck". To prepare the dish, the conscientious chef adopted Cantonese cooking technique of "simmering rice in a clay pot". A cleaned duck was steamed with scallion, ginger and wine until well done. The bones were removed and the meat was cut into small cubes, which was combined with duck juice, cubed ham, bamboo shoots, Shiitake mushroom, green vegetable heart, rice, soup stock and appropriate amount of salt. The contents were simmered slowly in a clay pot with lid covered until everything was thoroughly cooked. After it was done, Lu personally delivered it to Wu's home. The thrilled artist eagerly lifted the lid, closed his eyes and took a deep breath, allowing himself to fully enjoy the wonderful aroma of the duck. Wu's family happily ate the fabulous dish. To express gratitude to Lu's superb skills and sincerity, Lu was invited to view the rarely displayed cultural relic of the genuine painting by Tang Bohu's (唐伯虎, 1470-1523, a great artist in Chinese history). The artist also drew for Lu an exquisite flower-and-bird painting on a traditional Chinese paper fan.

Jie-Er-Jing has attracted many other prominent artists and dazzling entertainers. Included Chinese painter and calligrapher Qian Juntao, Liu Haisu, Cheng Shifa, Beijing opera singer Zhang Junqiu, Ye Shaolan, Zhang Yunpeng, Ding Shier, Yuan Xuefeng, and movie star Zhao Dan, Wang Zhongying, Bai Yang, Zhang Ruifang and comedian Yao Mushuang, Zhou Bochun, Yang Huasheng and more.

Today at Jie-Er-Jing Restaurant, a vertical scroll is hung high above the main dining hall. On it, there is the calligraphy writing consisting of four huge Chinese characters "Qi-Wei-Wu-Qiong" (great taste that seems endless), which was a spur-of-the-moment creation by the great artist Liu Haisu after eating the marvelous "Dry-Fried Shredded Beef" and "Stir-Fried Eel" at the restaurant.

The most talked about story was how former Premier Zhou Enlai helped resolve the location issue of the restaurant. In 1958, Premier Zhou Enlai visited the Science Museum on Nanchang Road. Around noon time, many scientists and technologists went outside to find a place to eat lunch. Zhou asked if the Museum had a place for people to eat. He remembered the nearby Jie-Er-Jing restaurant, where had once he tried their Dry-fried Shredded beef in 1945. Jie-Er-Jing was then relocated from Xingan Road to the present address, which was right next door to the Science Museum. The relocation of Jie-Er-Jing gave many Chinese and foreign scientists and artists the opportunity to taste the mouthwatering Sichuan food. Jie-Er-Jing has since won the reputation of "home to scientists and artists".

There's a couple, husband 89 and wife 94. They have been dining at Jie-Er-Jing since the 1930's. They have submitted to Shanghai Archives 1000 receipts from the restaurant, which they have been collecting as of December 23th, 1998.

Dry-Fried Shredded Beef 干煸牛肉丝

This famous house specialty originated from the royal court of the Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong (1736-1796). The beef has a pungent spicy flavor and a slightly acidic taste. It can be stored and kept fresh for prolonged period of time. During that era, the royal chefs prepared this dish for the traveling government officers to eat on the road. Later the dish became known to the general public. When making this dish, Jie-Er-Jing Restaurant used large amount of vinegar, which not only enhances the aroma, but also tenderizes the beef to provide an extraordinary texture. Both Premier Zhou Enlai and artist Liu Haisu highly recommended this dish after eating it. When Guo Moruo was in Shanghai, he particularly ordered it from Jie-Er-Jing restaurant to take home and savor the taste with his family in Beijing. The dish won the gold award in Shanghai Food and Beverage Exposition.

Beef with Orange Peel 陈皮牛肉

As a signature dish of Jie-Er-Jing, its origin is similar to the Dry-Fried Shredded Beef. This dish has a shiny, dark brown appearance and a full range of flavors. Spiciness, sourness and sweetness blend together with a subtle scent of orange, creating a colorful, intriguing and elegant culinary masterpiece. Shanghai Education Television Station has conducted special interviews with the restaurant and produced programs featuring Beef with Orange Peel, Dry-Fried Shredded Meat and Shredded Bean Curd respectively.

Wen-Si Tofu 文思豆腐

This dish originated from Jiu-Si Tofu (bean curd with nine shredded ingredients), a dish made by Tianning Temple's head Wen-Si in Jiangsu Province during Emperor Qianlong's reign of the Qing Dynasty. The dish was very popular because of the flavor-infused bean curd. Later on, this type of Tofu dish was named after the monk and consistently called Wen-Si Tofu. At the inception of the restaurant, the chef cooked Wen-Si Tofu and asked painter Wu Hufan for a taste test. The painter suggested cutting Tofu into very fine pieces, and renamed the dish to "Wen-Si", which means line strand, but still carries the same pronunciation. Today, apart from the slivers of Tofu, Wen-Si Tofu at Jie-Er-Jing restaurant is also complemented with sliced dried scallop and chicken soup. Savory and refreshing, this dish is deeply loved by restaurant patrons and it has the honor of being listed in the Guinness World Records.

Stir-Fried Eel 生爆鳝片

The amazing features of JieEr-Jing's Stir-Fried Eel include crispy and tender texture and a fusion of sweet, spicy and tangy flavors. The praise "Incredible taste from heaven's kitchen" was first given by Chinese painter and calligrapher Qiang Juntao. It seemed that the delicious food truly deserves its great reputation. Painter Liu Haisu commented: "After eating fine foods all over Shanghai, this is the first time I have tasted such lovely dish." Eel is abundant in nutrients and has the benefits of nourishing Qi and blood, and strengthening muscles and bones. Through meticulous preparations by the chefs, Stir-Fried Eel displays rich regional style of Sichuan cuisine. It is one of the most frequently ordered dishes in the restaurant.

Sautéed Green Bean Paste 青豆泥

In Chinese, green bean is a common name of sweet pea. It is high in calcium and vitamins, especially suitable for people suffering from high cholesterol, atherosclerosis and hypertension.

This delightful desert is admired for its "non-stick" property. It does not stick to the surfaces of plates or spoons, or neither in your mouth. Since the founding of Jie-Er-Jing, Green Bean Paste has enjoyed an everlasting success for 60 years. It has won many awards and titles, including "Shanghai Famous Snack" and the gold award in the "Shanghai Food and Beverage Exposition".

Address: 82 Yandang Road

Telephone: 021-53861004

Hours of Operation: 11:00 - 21:00