Sightseeing along the Suzhou Creek　苏州河之旅

The Suzhou Creek, with a total length of 125 km, used to be called the Wusong River. It originates at Guajingkou of the Taihu Lake, and inside the Shanghai section it is 53 km long and averagely 60 m wide. In the east of Shanghai it merges with the Huangpu River. In the 1920s, with the rapid increase of factories on both banks, the Suzhou Creek was badly polluted, becoming an inerasable stain of Shanghai. Since the comprehensive realignment in 2003, the Suzhou Creek has taken on a new look: Its water has become clean and clear, and trees and grasses are planted on both banks; it has turned out to be a beautiful on-the-water scenic corridor. In the section of Putuo District, lighting is appropriately used with emphasis on the harmony among the city, the people, and the lighting. The night scene here presents a warm and tranquil atmosphere; as a result, it is listed as one of the best night scenes in Shanghai.

In the 4th year (1570) during the reign of Emperor Longqing of the Ming Dynasty, the first gate bridge was built over the Suzhou Creek. Over the time, 30 bridges had been built, and now only 26 still exist. The first and earliest bridge is the Waibaidu Bridge and from which the Suzhou Creek goes westward. On the left bank of the creek is the Huangpu Park, in which stands the Monument to the People's Heroes in Shanghai. Further forward is the garden building that was constructed in Shanghai 100 years ago, which was used as the British Consulate. On the right bank, the exquisite building with a pointed roof and white walls is the Russian Consulate, which is a cultural relic under municipal protection and a modern architectural heritage in Shanghai. Then there comes the oldest and most deluxe Astor House, which was built in the 26th year (1846) during the reign of Emperor Daoguang of the Qing Dynasty. And it is now the Pujiang Hotel. It was here that seven of the first fifteen electric lights were fixed, that the first telephone in China was used, that the first open-air film was shown, and that the first formal dancing party was held. And international celebrities would stay here during their stay in Shanghai. The 78-meter-tall skyscraper by the creek is the Shanghai Mansion, a landmark in Shanghai. Its construction completed in 1934 and was originally named Broadway Mansion. It is one of the buildings at the Bund that is a cultural relic under national protection. Further forward is the Zhapu Road Bridge, also called Ferry Bridge No.2, which was built in 1927 and is 72 m long. As it represents the typical urban style of Shanghai, it is a modern architectural heritage in Shanghai. On the south of the bridge is Shanghai International Trade Hall, which used to be the Capitol Theater built in 1925. The theater was mainly used to show British and American films and to stage western operas. And it was here that the earliest sound film was shown in China. And it was changed to the present name in 1982. In the vicinity of Zhapu Road there are five cinemas. Among them, the Hongkou Theater, which used to be called Hongkou Mobile Picture Theater, is actually the first cinema in China. Therefore, this area is often referred to as China film industry's birthplace. In the north section of Zhapu Road there are 112 restaurants, so it is nicknamed Delicacy Street. The European style Ferry Bridge No.3 is Sichuan Road Bridge, built in 1922. At the north end of the bridge is the General Post Office Building of Shanghai. Its construction completed in 1924. It was the largest post office in China then. Of the classical British style, the building is 51 m tall. It is a cultural relic under state protection. Going forward, we come to Riverside Mansion, which was built in 1933. Its third floor was apartments that were mostly resided by foreigners. And the offices of many famous movie companies as Universal, MGM, Columbia, United Artists, etc. were all located here. And it is a cultural relic under protection in Shanghai. Across the Henan Road Bridge, the building on the right side is the former Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce, which was built in 1884 and is a cultural relic under protection in Shanghai for its western-style decoration and exquisite sculpture. As the Fujian Road Bridge is located at the place of the gate bridge of the Ming Dynasty, it used to be referred to as the Old Gate Bridge. Along both banks from here to the Xizang Road Bridge are reserved the early stone-gate residential houses. Zhejiang Road Bridge used to be near the docks for trashes, it was thus called the Old Trash Bridge, which was built in 1908. It was the second all-steel-structured bridge over the Suzhou Creek. In terms of structure and building material, it is comparable to the Yellow River Bridge built in 1905 in Zhenzhou and the Yellow River Bridge built in 1909 in Lanzhou. Similar to the Waibaidu Bridge, which was completed one year earlier, it was crossed by tramcars. The Xizang Road Bridge over the Suzhou Creek, which is located in the bustling area of the city proper, was historically called the New Trash Bridge or Nicheng Bridge. The one-km-long road from the Zhejiang Road Bridge up to Wuzhen Road Bridge were lined with warehouses and dock depositories, among which the most famous was the Sihang Warehouse on the northwest bank, which was jointly built by Yien Yieh Commercial Bank, Kincheng Bank, China & South Sea Bank and Continuental Bank in 1932. On the night of October 26, 1937, Xie Jinyuan, a KMT army officer, together with his 400 soldiers, defended the Sihang Warehouse. For four days and nights, in defiance of fierce cannon bombardments, they defeated six attacks launched by the countless Japanese invaders, killing more than 200 Japanese soldiers. During the fight, the national flag was flying high at the top of the roof. On the front gate, the golden characters Shang Hai Si Hang Cang Ku (上海四行仓库), meaning Shanghai Sihang Warehouse, are the handwriting by Wang Daohan, former Mayor of Shanghai. The Wuzhen Road Bridge was renovated from the former cement bridge in 1998. In the twilight of the morning of May 26, 1949, the PLA men, who were already in control of the south bank of the Suzhou Creek, crossed this bridge and charged into city on the north bank. On the 27th, they successfully occupied the area on the north bank. Therefore, this bridge was the first bridge that welcomed liberation.

On both banks along the Suzhou Creek, the old buildings were leveled and replaced with high-risers, high and low, grand and imposing. Green trees and colorful ground bricks make up really beautiful scenery. By the Suzhou Creek, more than 30 residential quarters with water views have been erected. Before liberation, this part of the city used to be the notorious slum area, dirty and shabby, which has been eradicated. In addition to many tall buildings, there are also parks with ponds and islands, trees and flowers, bridges and fishes. You might chance upon dragon boat races on the Suzhou Creek. In the old days, modern romantic art workshops were already being set up in this area. Taking a walk in this area, you are likely to get acquainted with water culture, bridge culture, modern architectural culture, modern housing culture, as well as a great many anecdotes. And you could also share the happiness in the realization of the dream that the Suzhou Creek would become clean and clear!

On the afternoon of May 28, 2009, the 5th day of the 5th lunar month, i.e. the Dragon Boat Festival, the 6th Shanghai International Dragon Boat Tournament on the Suzhou Creek was being held. Thirty-six teams participated. The tournament consisted of the opening ceremony, on-the-water performance, recreational and sports performance, and dragon race. In the residential areas along the Suzhou Creek, colorful flags were fluttering and drums and gongs were being played. Hundreds of thousands of people were cheering for the race.

Shortly before October 2009, the waterbuses began service on the Suzhou Creek. The route sails from the Changshou Road Bridge to the Zhenbei Road Bridge. In the future, the Suzhou Creek will be linked with the Yinchu Lake of Changfeng Park; therefore, the cruise boats can sail directly to the lake.