Chinese Embroidery中国刺绣

Embroidery is a brilliant pearl of Chinese handicrafts. From the magnificent dragon robe worn by emperors in ancient times to the popular embroidery seen in today’s fashions, it adds much pleasure to our life and our culture.

The oldest embroidered product in China on record dates to the Shang Dynasty. Embroidery in the period symbolized social status. It was not until later on, as the national economy developed, that embroidered products entered the lives of the common people.

The Han Dynasty witnessed a leap in embroidery development both in technique and art style. The patterns of embroidery covered a larger range, from sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, and phoenixes to tigers, flowers and grass, clouds and geometric patterns. Auspicious words were also fashionable. 

The major styles of embroidery are Su Embroidery, Shu Embroidery, Xiang Embroidery, and Yue Embroidery.  

Su is short for Suzhou, a typical southern water town. Suzhou and everything from it reflects tranquility(静谧), refinement (精致), and elegance. So does Su Embroidery. Embroidery with fish on one side and kitty on the other side is a representative of this style. Favored with the advantaged climate, Suzhou with its surrounding areas is suitable for raising silk and planting mulberry trees. As early as the Song Dynasty, Su Embroidery was already well known for its elegance and vividness. In the Ming Dynasty, influenced by the Wu School of painting, it began to adopt painting and calligraphy in its artistry. In history, Su Embroidery dominated the royal wardrobe and walls. Even today, it occupies a large share of the market in China.

Originated from Sichuan, Shu Embroidery, influenced by its geographic environment and local customs, is characterized by a refined and brisk style. The earliest record of Shu Embroidery was in the Western Han Dynasty. At that time, embroidered products were a luxury enjoyed only by the royal family and were strictly controlled by the government. During the period from the Han Dynasty to the Three Kingdoms, Shu Embroidery and Shu Brocade (织锦) were exchanged for horses and used to settle debts. In the Qing Dynasty, Shu Embroidery entered the market and industry was formed. Workshops and governmental bureaus were fully devoted to it, promoting the development of the industry. It became more elegant and covered a wider range. From the paintings by masters to patterns by designers, to landscape, flowers and birds, dragons and phoenix, tiles (瓦片) and ancient coins, it seemed all could be the topic of embroidery. Folk stories like the “Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea”, “Kylin① Presenting a Son” and other auspicious patterns such as “Magpie(喜鹊) on Plum” and “Mandarin Ducks” (鸳鸯) Playing on the Water” were also favorite topics. 

As art from Hunan, Xiang Embroidery was a witness of the ancient Xiang (Hunan) and Chu (Hubei) culture. It was a gift to the royal family during the Spring and Autumn Period. The most persuasive evidence is the articles unearthed in Mawangdui Han Tomb②. Developed over two thousand years, Xiang Embroidery became a special branch of Chinese art. Besides the common topics seen in other styles, it absorbed elements from calligraphy, painting, and inscription. Its uniqueness is that it is patterned after a painting draft, but is not limited by it. Perhaps because of this technique, a flower seems to send off fragrance, a bird seems to sing, a tiger seems to run, and a person seems to breathe.

Yue Embroidery, which encompasses the embroidery of Guangzhou and Chaozhou, has the same origin as Li Brocade （黎锦）. People generally agree that it started from the Tang Dynasty since Lu Meiniang, who embroidered seven chapters of Buddhist sutra, was from Guangdong. Portraits，flowers and birds are the most popular themes. In addition, it uses rich colors for strong contrast and a magnificent and bustling effect.

Abridged and revised from

http://www.travelchinaguide.com/intro/arts/embroidery.htm

Notes:

① Kylin: 麒麟是中国古代汉族神话传说中的传统神兽，性情温和，传说能活两千年。古人认为，麒麟出没处，必有祥瑞。有时用来比喻才能杰出、德才兼备的人。

② Mawangdui Han Tomb: 马王堆汉墓，位于湖南省长沙市，是西汉初期长沙国丞相利苍及其家属的墓葬，。1972～1974年，考古工作者在这里先后发掘了3座西汉时期墓葬。墓葬内的随葬品十分丰富，共出土丝织品、帛书、帛画、漆器、陶器、中草药等遗物3000余件。